How to do: Foundation

By Luke

Oh sweet mother of god there are a lot of base products out there aren’t there? Foundations, tinted moisturisers, BB creams, CC creams, and everything in between. What are they, and what is best for you? Where on earth do you start?

Well there are a whole host of bases available, and all are good for different things, like, different times of year, different skin types. Any one person should ideally have at least two of the following list in their arsenal, in my humble opinion.

TINTED MOISTURISER

Light, translucent. Gently evens skin tone without covering too much up. You should be able to see your skin underneath and have it not feel heavy, or opaque. Ideal for on makeup wearers (who ARE you people??!!) and summertime. Comes in a variety of textures (oil free, radiant) and finishes (matte, dewy). Generally a fluid type, but sometimes comes in a compact. NOT a replacement for skincare generally. Just a name for a super sheer makeup.

GOOD FOR: A little bit of coverage, the summer time, when you don’t want to much on, generally everyone who wants a light easily applied makeup.

BAD FOR: Anyone that has hyper pigmentation (they generally will not cover this) or anyone that requires a fuller coverage base.

I RECOMMEND: There are a lot of these, but I like the Laura Mercier tinted moisturiser a lot Amazing array of colours, and textures, and I also love the Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua (available nationwide, £32) . Less choice of colour, but a really lovely finish, and is virtually weightless. It also has light diffusing particles that are imperceptible, but work really well. Will need to give this a really good shake before you use it though. The NARS Tinted Moisturisers (available at www.NARSCosmetics.co.uk, £29) are also amazing, and have a high SPF too. Tend to use these when I’m working outdoors.

FOUNDATION

There are lots to choose from here. Comes in all manner of finishes, dewy, to matte. All different types of coverage also, from really close to what one might consider a tinted moisturiser, to a full coverage where nothing shows through. All different types of texture available, generally for different skin types. Creamy for dry, oil free for blemish prone, or shiny, compact foundations for ease of use, to sprays, and the list goes on. Just so you know, I have yet to come across a foundation that I can’t make look amazing, regardless of the price, and the quality. It’s not good enough to slap it on, you do need to spend a little bit of time, not hours, but a bit of time working it so you get what you want from it. Colour is perhaps the most important thing here. But generally nowadays they are all pretty good.

GOOD FOR: Anyone that requires a bit more coverage, perhaps the more problem end of the skin spectrum.

BAD FOR: Anyone who thinks you need a foundation ‘for evening’. Not necessarily. Anyone that doesn’t want to cover 70% of their features. Anyone that doesn’t want to spend a little bit of time working a base on.

I RECOMMEND: Lord so many. But in my kit I have the YSL Le Teint Touche Eclat which I adore. Light coverage, and dewy finish, and comes in a great range of colours, I use these a lot and am forever running out. The Clinique Repairwear Laser Focus foundation (available nationwide, £29) is another one I love. Not wild about the range of colours here, could be more, but generally found that it’s a good match for just about everyone. Has amazing skincare benefits too. Another one of my all time faves is Bourjois Healthy Mix Serum (available at www.superdrug.com, £8.99)). Amazing stuff. And so reasonably priced and smells delicious. Also I do like the Givenchy Teint couture foundation (available at www.houseoffraser.com, £32.50). Great coverage, not too heavy, and a really nice finish on it. Particularly for skins that can’t make their mind up if they are dry or oily.

MINERAL POWDER

Generally formed of minerals (no surprise there) which act as a sort of flat pigment that sits over the skin, and when ‘buffed’ provide coverage. Lots of different ones on the market with varying degrees of quality and effectiveness. Generally contain a natural (as in not added) SPF due to the nature of the product, and the materials used. NOT a face powder in the traditional sense. Has little to no oil absorbing quality, and if it does, sorry. It aint a mineral powder proper.

I RECOMMEND: Well, there is a well known brand of this particular type of makeup that frankly, I just can’t get along with. I find it overpriced and frankly, rather chalky looking. AAAANYWAY, I hate to bang on about them, but the best mineral powders I have ever used are the Laura Mercier ones. They come in two formats. Pressed and loose, they cover well, have a good range of colours. Some may struggle to match up, but few will, and they last a while too. (£31, available nationwide)

GOOD FOR: Generally speaking anyone that is particularly sensitive (unless it’s a mineral sensitivity), anyone that wants a quick and easy application as these are generally brushed on.

BAD FOR: Anyone with very dry skin. Despite not having a huge talc content, they are still a ‘powder’ so can look a bit arid on dry skins. Anyone who wants to look totally matte. They DO NOT absorb oil in the way a setting powder does. Older skins may struggle with these too, as they can show up fine lines.

BB CREAMS

Perhaps the most misunderstood, overused new term in the beauty market to date. Save for that awful ‘hypoallergenic’ rubbish that means zilch, but that’s a rant for another post. BB creams are not tinted moisturisers, and tinted moisturisers are not BB creams. A lot of BB creams on the market are IN FACT tinted moisturisers under a zeitgeist name. BB Creams were invented in Germany, not Malaysia as is commonly believed, by a Dr who wanted her clients to be able to wear a base that covered the rather inflammatory effects of her aggressive anti ageing facials that would also benefit the skin. The BB (or blemish balm, not beauty balm) was born. A unique product, with pigment suspended in rich skincare that evened out tone and redness and also helped the skin to heal. It was quickly adapted by the Malaysian market as a staple favourite, and then of course we heard about it a mere 10 years later, and acted like it’s the second coming. The formula since has been diluted down and down to such an extent that to be honest, if you are considering a tinted moisturiser or a BB cream, there is so little in the difference, you could quite easily use either to the same effect.

I RECOMMEND: There are few actual BB creams out there. Dr Jart (available at www.boots.com, from £9) is the closest I have come across. I am not wild about the colour of them though, but they feel nice and are easy to use. Without doubt, the best one I have ever used is the Stila 10-in-one HD Beauty Balm (available at www.boots.com, £26). Not strictly a BB cream, but has the same effect. I used this on myself when I had a quite reddening lactic acid peel, and it worked a treat. Love the finish on this. Another one I like is the Rodial BB Venom Skin tint (available at www.rodial.co.uk £35).

GOOD FOR: Anyone wanting to try something OTHER than a tinted moisturiser. Anyone who wants an uber natural finish, with the added benefits of skincare.

BAD FOR: Anyone expecting a fuller coverage.

CC CREAMS

Yet another product that has been around for eons, just rediscovered and given a new name. Commonly known in the industry as colour correctors, I have been using similar incarnations of these for nigh on 10 years. Now though, some have the benefit of a smart delivery system that means instead of effectively staining the skin, which is what they used to do, they become part of it, similar to the way a BB Cream pigment is delivered, and are thus much easier to use, and less like to make you look like Shrek.

I RECOMMEND: I am extremely old fashioned and tend not to use these, as I go for the colour correctors instead. That said some really nice ones have landed on my desk over the last year or so, My fave is the Clinique Moisture Surge CC Cream (available at www.debenhams.co.uk, £30). I have heard stories that despite the name, it can leave the skin feeling quite dry, but adequate skincare underneath sort of stops this. It does now also come in a handy compact. The Bobbi Brown ones are also good and come in a variety of colours for different concerns.

GOOD FOR: Anyone with high colour, or feels their skin could do with a ‘boost’ of radiance or more even tone. There are different colours for different needs. Green for anti redness, peach for dullness etc...

BAD FOR: Anyone who wants coverage. These work together with your base to make a more flawless appearance.

DD CREAMS 

I have no idea. Not sure I want to know either. See: cynical marketing efforts by beauty companies.

Tools

To use a sponge or a brush? I would probably guess that 7 out 10 women do not use either, as it’s seen as a bit cumbersome, and takes a bit more time. Well, this isn’t necessarily the case. There are a whole host of tools to apply foundation that can make the world of difference to the finish. Here is a very general guide:

A sponge should never be used wet! I hear this happening a lot. No. Just no. It will affect the foundation to such an extent that I am pretty sure you’ll be looking at about 20 minutes of good wear. Always use a dry sponge, preferably one you can wash and re use.


There is no real benefit to using a sponge over a brush or vice versa, it really is personal preference. As a very general rule, a brush will place the foundation well, and buff it in, where as a sponge is an excellent idea for moving the product around, and blending it around the edges of the face.


No sponge or brush need be used with a BB Cream or tinted moisturiser. They are too sheer really for this sort of application. Fingers all the way here.


Please for the sake of your poor face, make sure that you CLEAN your foundation brush and/or your makeup sponge. Even if it is just you who is using it, it will still gather all sorts of bacteria so a good wash once a month (or more) is HIGHLY advisable. This can be done simply with some hot water, and some washing up liquid. Dry them flat on a tea towel overnight.


A little foundation from the bottle or pump on the back of your hand rather than dipping it into the bottle itself is advisable. Hygiene being incredibly important here.

I RECOMMEND: Just your common or garden makeup sponge from Superdrug. I prefer the Oval shaped ones as they are easier to get into the smaller areas of the face than the triangular ones. To me, it makes no difference if you use a latex free sponge or not. Save for should you have an allergy to latex.

BRUSHES

I recommend the following:

MAC 187: Large head of duo fibre hairs. One set synthetic, one set natural. All cut different lengths so excellent for buffing in any foundation. I just go in circular motions all round the face. Don’t be afraid by the ‘seams’ this brush leaves initially in the foundation, as soon as you keep buffing, they disappear to a flawless finish.

MAC 183: Same as above, but with a smaller head, great for getting into smaller areas, or if the 187 is a little intimidating. Both available at www.MACcosmetics.co.uk

Estee Lauder Foundation Brush: Perfectly sized, and cut to place foundation. Using the flat side of the brush you literally paint it on, until you have the desired finish. Available nationwide.

Glamcor Finish Brush: Superb buffing/finishing brush. Huge head on it again with the duo fibres that are shorter. Excellent for finishing a foundation by gently using the very tips of the fibres to gently buff over the surface of the base to really give a flawless finish. Available at www.preciousaboutmakup.com

This post: How to do: Foundation originated at: Get Lippie All rights reserved. If you are not reading this post at Get Lippie, then this content has been stolen by a scraper

How To De-Scent A Lipstick, featuring Art Deco

I mentioned de-scenting lipsticks on my Facebook page recently, and got lots of messages about blogging the method, so I thought I'd tie it into a review of two lipsticks that I bought recently (and really like) but had troubles with the smell of.

Oops, always photograph before swatching, you 'nana!

Above you can see two Art Deco lipsticks in the velvet formula in 235 (on the left) and 628 (on the right), which are wonderful lipsticks, 235 is a brown-rose shade, and 628 (from the Dita's Classics collection - which I highly recommend, btw) is a warm dark red.  I love the Art Deco Velvet lipstick formula, it's on the matte side, but doesn't dry your lips out, and the pigment lasts and lasts and lasts ...

Swatches:

I adore practically everything about these lipsticks, aside from the scent, which is a vanilla fragrance which some people love, and I - personally - cannot abide. It's very, very similar to the scent of MAC lipsticks, which I think smells like chewed up paper.  But, like I said, some people love it!  Scent is such a personal thing in cosmetics, I've found.

Anyway, the scent in these was so strong, that I felt compelled to try de-scenting them, and I'm happy to report that, whilst the scent hasn't disappeared completely it's now been knocked down to far more tolerable levels.

The method?  Well, it's fairly simple, take your highly-fragranced lipstick, and do this:

Yes, take the tops off them. you don't need to twist them up - though you can do, if you have somewhere safe to put the lipsticks - i.e. somewhere you won't knock them over.  This is important because of the next stage:

Step two: leave them alone for at least 24 hours.  Some lipsticks will only take a day, some more persistent lipsticks may take two or three.  What you're doing is exposing the lipsticks to the air for long enough to allow the volatile scent oils to evaporate. These took around two days.

Step three: After a day, give them a sniff.  If the scent has been knocked back far enough for you, then pop the top back on, and use it from that point forward with abandon!  If it's still a bit whiffy, then leave the top off for another day, and repeatt step three until the scent is at an acceptable level.

So, yes, really quite simple.  Don't worry, your lipsticks won't dry out, but I really wouldn't recommend doing this for more than, say, three days...

Hope this has been helpful!  Let me know in the comments! 
 
This post: http://getlippie.blogspot.com/2012/10/how-to-de-scent-lipstick-featuring-art-deco.html originated at: http://getlippie.com if you're not reading it on Get Lippie, then this content has been stolen by a scraper. All rights reserved.

Spots - A How To Guide

We all get zits. Occasionally, we all get those hormonal enormozits that take ages to come to a head and then take what feels like months to disappear. Here's my patented guide to dealing with zits.

Required:
Salicylic acid-based spot treatment
Clay-based face mask
Elizabeth Arden 8 Hour Cream or similar

Notes:
The vast majority of topical spot treatments contain salicylic acid, but I can personally recommend Clinique, and Origins as good ones.

If an emergency zit treatment is required, smush an aspirin (the active ingredient in aspirin is salicylic acid!), dilute with a little water, and dab the paste on your zit as required.

Method:
Dab the affected area with salicylic acid treatment of choice every few hours. Then put a dab of clay based mask on for overnight, to draw the spot out quicker.

Use something greasy - I'm going to recommend 8Hr cream here for traditions sake, but you can use vaseline, or bio oil, as you wish, but it must be something highly emollient - to clear up the inevitable redness and dryness caused by salicylic acid zit-zapper.

If squeezing proves irresistible:

If you end up popping your enormozit, first make sure your hands are clean! Pop, then use the clay mask to draw out all the impurities - leave it in place as long as you possibly can - then cover with grease of your choice (bio oil, 8hr cream etc) to ease resultant redness/flakiness/soreness.

This should help your zit leave quicker and not leave you wanting to tear your hair out waiting for it to go.

Any other spot tips out there?

How To: Apply Liquid Eyeliner

I bring you the step by step guide to putting on liquid eyeliner ...

1) buy one with a good brush (fine, with straight bristles and a good natural point)

2) arrange dressing table/mirror/se

lf so that your elbow is resting on the table and the mirror is at eye level

3) tilt head back so that you are looking down your nose straight into the mirror with your eyes half closed

4) hold eyeliner brush like a pen

5) steady head with relation to face - depending on hand size/finger length/brush type you can either rest your chin on your hand or rest the tip of your little finger on your cheekbone - you'll need to practice a bit to find a comfortable position that leaves the brush pointing down at a slight angle so it clears your eyelashes and so you can still see the end of the brush clearly in the mirror. Keep both eyes open so you can judge distance properly

6) with the brush pointing slightly down and the tip right up against your top lashes, about 1/4 of the way along your lid (1/4 of the way out from your nose) sweep to far end of lid, staying close to lashes. Push a little harder over the middle half of the sweep, then gradually take the brush away so it is barely touching the skin by the time you reach the end of the line (tilt the line up a bit at the end if you are planning to go a little beyond the lash line )

And there you go! Piece of cake. Go away, try it. You'll look marvellous. Sorry, marvellous-er.

---

How To: Apply Smokey Eyeshadow

My own patented (in 2004!) technique for smokey eyeshadow...

Smokey eyes:

You will need

one fairly stiff eyeshadow brush
one medium sized mirror
eyeshadow of choice
eyeliner of choice
mascara

Technique:

Load shadow brush with shadow. Hold mirror beneath your chin, and look down into it. Close one eye, and push shadow - brush pointing upwards - into the line of your eye socket. At this angle, the socket line will be perfectly visible in the mirror. Re-load the brush with colour and do the same for the other eye.

Place mirror at your usual angle, and using the same shadow, colour in your eyelids. Make sure you push the colour well down towards the lash-line. This will be easier if you use the brush pointing downwards.

Check effect in mirror, the line where the shadow stops in the sockets should then be blended - you can use your finger or a blending brush -so that it there is no harsh line between the shadow finishing and your skin beginning.

Line eyes - with either pencil, or matching shadow using a brush - above, below, and inner rim if desired and add lots of mascara.

The trick is the looking down into a mirror and following the socket line - if you go too high up with the shadow, it looks wrong - and also, not using liquid liner, it's far too harsh.

Sometimes I do this without colouring in the lid after finding the
socket line, and it works astonishingly well as a softer, yet still smokey alternative. That's actually my usual office makeup, just colour in the socket line, eyeliner and mascara.

How To: Use Hairsticks

Again, from the hugely helpful Binturong, how to use Hair Sticks.

1. Gather hair backwards as if about to put it into a low ponytail.

2. Twist and fold upwards as you twist, as if doing a french pleat (the instructions that follow are for a twist that starts with the right hand side going over the top when the hair is hanging down, so by the time it's folded up the 'smooth' side is on the left and the 'tucked in' side is on the right, if you twist the other way then reverse the instructions).

3. Hold hair stick behind head parallel with the floor with decorated end on the left.

4. Starting on the left of the roll of hair, poke the stick through to the right. The angle should take it slightly away form your head, so it starts quite deep and comes out on the right hand side halfway through the depth of the bulge (I'm not sure that's very clear - if the roll of hair were a baguette held vertically against the back of your head, the stick should go in where the bottom crust is, and come out where the cheese is in the middle)

5. Holding everything firmly in place, rotate the stick end over end while turning it 90 degrees (you see why I really need pictures?). Lift the decorated end out away from your head (keeping the stick parallel with the floor) - this should push the pointed end into your scalp. Keeping the point pressed firmly to your scalp, when the stick is pointing directly out from your head change direction and fold the decorated end up.

6. If you've manage to follow the previous instructions without completely tying your arms in knots, when the stick reaches vertical push it down through the roll of hair, keeping close to your scalp.

7. Repeat from (3) with second stick, but change the angles slightly so the sticks end up crossing over each other.

How To: Cleanse Dry, Sensitive, Flaky Skin

I have dry, sensitive flaky skin, and I've suffered with it for years, buying ever more expensive, and heavy, moisturisers to try and deal with the problem. This, I've since found, is a shortcut to adult acne, which is never the greatest look.

I have solved the problem somewhat though, mainly by changing my cleansing routine, and using a lighter moisturiser. The routine is as follows:

Required

Cleanser of choice - oil, bar, cream, balm, foam (one note, if your skin is sensitive all the time, and is dry as a matter of course, then please, please please, do not use a foaming cleanser under any circumstances, the vast majority - even the ones for sensitive skin - will contain Sodium Laurel Sulphate, and this is horrendous for causing irritation. The others tend to be too harsh too) or whichever type works best for you.
Muslin cloth - available from the baby care department of Boots, or at a pinch, a soft towelling face cloth will do.
Hot water - as warm as your hand can stand. Too hot, and you'll break capillaries in your face.
Moisturiser of choice

Method

Apply cleanser to lightly dampened face, and massage face lightly with your fingertips. Have your muslin cloth soaking in the hot water while this is happening. The Eve Lom website has instructions on how to do this and give yourself a lymphatic massage at the same time, but it's not necessary for every day cleansing.

Once your face is thoroughly covered, wring out your cloth, shake it out and press it to your entire face. Hold it over your face for a few seconds, breathing in the steam, then repeat. Repeat once more (three times in total).

Once more, rinse your cloth in the hot water. Wring out, and start removing what remains of the cleanser from your face using small circular motions, until all traces of cleanser are removed from your face. Rinse your cloth in slightly cooler water this time, apply to the face as before and hold for a few seconds. Pat your face dry gently.

Apply your mosituriser as normal. You should notice straightaway that your face feels a lot smoother and softer, and, if used regularly - ie, every time you cleanse - you'll never have flaky skin again!

---

How To: Deal with Spots

We all get zits. Occasionally, we all get those hormonal enormozits that take ages to come to a head and then take what feels like months to disappear. Here's my patented guide to dealing with zits.

Required:
Salicylic acid-based spot treatment
Clay-based face mask
Elizabeth Arden 8 Hour Cream or similar

Notes:
The vast majority of topical spot treatments contain salicylic acid, but I can personally recommend Clinique, and Origins as good ones.

If an emergency zit treatment is required, smush an aspirin (the active ingredient in aspirin is salicylic acid!), dilute with a little water, and dab the paste on your zit as required.

Method:
Dab the affected area with salicylic acid treatment of choice every few hours. Then put a dab of clay based mask on for overnight, to draw the spot out quicker.

Use something greasy - I'm going to recommend 8Hr cream here for traditions sake, but you can use vaseline, or bio oil, as you wish, but it must be something highly emollient - to clear up the inevitable redness and dryness caused by salicylic acid zit-zapper.

If squeezing proves irresistible:

If you end up popping your enormozit, first make sure your hands are clean! Then use the clay mask to draw out all the impurities - leave it in place as long as you possibly can - then cover with grease of your choice (bio oil, 8hr cream etc) to ease resultant redness/flakine

ss/soreness.

This should help your zit leave quicker and not leave you wanting to tear your hair out waiting for it to go.

---