I ask all my lovely volunteers to bring their make up bags with them and before we get started we have a chat over a cup of tea and a biscuit about what the model wants from the session, how they want to look afterward, and if they want to be able to replicate the looks for themselves after. Every session is designed in it's entirety to meet the requirements of the person who's my sitter for the day.
With that in mind, meet Kate:
Kate normally has a very simple make up routine: powder, mascara, a touch of blusher and some lip balm. Kate actually owns quite a lot of very lovely makeup, but isn't sure how to use it, so today's session is all about learning how to maximise the potential of make up she already owns. Kate has asked to look very different, and wants a look that will work well for the evenings, but will be easy to apply herself later.
Let's start by having a look at Kate's makeup collection:
(please ignore the Calvin Klein palette there, it's mine, not Kates's)
That's a LOT of Laura Mercier there. It's a lovely collection, and one Kate could get a lot of use out of. So, let's get cracking.
Kate has lovely skin, but it's quite prone to redness, so the first thing we're going to do is apply a good base. After concealing to particular areas, then applying LM mineral primer and foundation, this is how Kate looks:
Her skin is a lot more even, and we've toned down the shine a little. I didn't really think there was a need for any heavy coverage, as I think a nice dewy finish is always slightly more flattering than a fully matte one.
Then, again using Laura Mercier, we primed the eyelids - Kate has very thin skin around the eyes, and the blood vessels near the surface can show through. Using a shadow primer will even out this colouration, and also give the loose powder shadow we're about to use something to cling to:
Okay, we have our base in place, and we're primed and ready to go, so let's start applying some colour now. Kate brought her LM "Steel Shining" shadow with her, so we're going to start with that, and apply a light colourwash across the whole eyelid, like so:
Now that's in place, we need a little more definition along the socket line with a slightly darker grey - here we used Calvin Klein shadow in Graphite. Kate was unsure how to find her socket line, so I showed her how to use an upright shadow brush and a mirror below the chin to help out when she's applying this look for herself. I did the first eye, and Kate did the second:
And here's the result of the team effort:
We then used the same Graphite shadow to line and define Kate's lovely grey/green eyes, and popped on a little mascara (Laura Mercier Long Lash):
To finish the look, we added just a tiny dusting of blusher (LM Pink Spark) and finished off with a coat of Clinique Tender Mauve on the lips. Here's the finished article:
It's a soft version of a smokey eye. Kate really enjoyed being shown how to use the products she owns and is really looking forward to getting stuck into creating some more dramatic looks for herself.