How to do Concealer

By Luke

Picture this: You’re sat round a dinner table and someone asks what it is that you do, so you tell them, and they immediately throw their hands over their face, and whimper “don’t look at me!!”. Does that happen to you? No? Well, to me it does. This is normally followed by a whole slew of questions, a beckoning of girlfriends, and that staple favourite question of straight men to makeup artists: “so do you do drag?”

I don’t mind this (save for the drag question), I am quite happy to talk makeup and skincare, depending on the location (funerals not so much) imagine staring into open casket and “well we think mother’s best feature was her lips so if you could just emphasise that....”

However, one of the things I get asked about by far the most is concealer. This is closely followed by foundation, but I’ll cover that in a later post. It seems that concealer is a bit of a mystery for a lot of people. Where do you put it? How do you put it on? Which concealers actually, you know, conceal?  The fact is that there are a ton of concealers out there, but very few are actually doing a good job of ‘concealing’, or even staying put. So, let me take you through what I use nearly every day of my working life. After 15 odd years of painting faces, I believe I have finally nailed this concealer lark.

First off the bat, there are a gazillion different textures of concealer. Solid, creamy, waxy, et al, and there are different textures for different things. As a very general rule:

• Solid/waxy (palette) are for the face. They warm up and cool down with your face so don’t move.
• Creamy/liquid (wand/pot) are for under the eye. Nourishing, and more flexible for that sensitive area.

If it’s a spot, or the odd blemish, the more yellow the concealer is, the better it will be at covering that angry red look. Redness is really what you are trying to diminish here. No concealer, no matter how opaque will ‘get rid’ of the bump or the texture. Just get rid of the colour. No bags will be got rid of unfortunately.

Face – How to use it

• A good synthetic brush for smaller areas is perfect. Synthetic because it doesn’t absorb any of the product.
• Only cover the area that NEEDS covering, and not muller it so that you end up with this huge blob of concealer screaming at you from your otherwise perfect face.
• Dot just over the bit that you want to cover, and pat it in.
• Set with a tiny bit of a fine face powder.
• For larger areas, use a fluffy brush that will have an ‘airbrush’ effect over the area.
• Concealer will pretty much ALWAYS go on AFTER your base. If it goes on before you are likely to rub it all off again.

Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage. £26. Multi award winning, and been around for a good 14 years or so for a reason. There are few that top this in terms if it’s ability to cover, and actually value for money. It’s divided into two tones, and this on first glance can be a little confusing. The reason for this is that there are no two places on the face that are the same colour so it gives you the control over the colour and tine to match where exactly you are trying to cover. I appreciate that this ‘mix your own’ method can appear to be a bit of a faff, but in actual fact, it is incredibly effective, and well worth spending that little bit of extra time to get it covered.

Louise Young have a similar concept that is also excellent. Three tonal concealers that are designed for the face, AND the under eye areas. Again, you may need to have a play around and mix to get the exact colour, and correct tone, but at £20 AND a brush included you really can’t beat these for value.

For under the eyes, it would be advisable to find one that is probably about 60 -70% opaque rather than total coverage. It doesn’t look terribly natural, and also is more likely to look heavy and obvious.

The trick with undereyes is to get rid of that blue/grey area right from the corner of your eye, on the side of your nose, to about ¾ of the way under your eye. Pasting concealer all the way along the undereye area is a bit of a waste to be honest. The other trick is to use enough to actually cover. I often see people putting an amount so small on that there is absolutely no benefit whatsoever. Don’t fear it!

A fair amount is fine, and if it’s too much keep patting it until it looks as close to your natural undereye as possible. It’s only make up, it does come off. Be bold with it! The best I have used are Clinique’s Airbrush concealer. A handy little pen with a brush in several colours that are perfect for almost all skin tones. It also has some radiance to it that brightens in a very subtle way. Not ideal for the face, but excellent coverage.

The other one I absolutely love is the NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer. In a wand so super easy to use the coverage on these are mighty, and the finish is just superb! Only a tiny little bit is needed.

Tools

These are very important. Here is a section of some of my favourite concealer brushes for under eye, and for the face. It isn’t really good enough to use your finger, tempting though it is as a) not terribly hygienic for your undereye area, and b) you do not want a honking great finger print in your concealer.

Going from top to bottom

• Glamcor Mini Finish brush. A great mixture of natural and synthetic hair to ‘airbrush’ concealer on. Great for under eyes, and also great for buffing in a little concealer on the face. (Available from www.preciousaboutmakeup.com)
• Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage Brush. Cut small, and to a point so the flat edge of the brush can get a fair amount under the eye, and the point of the brush can be used to get a precise dot over the area you are trying to cover on the face.
• M.A.C 219 brush. SUPER fine for those really tiny areas of coverage. Tiny veins, and small blemishes, this puts the concealer on almost imperceptibly. Takes a little time, but well wirth the effort.
• Glamcor Mini Contour. Slightly fatter, and purely synthetic for a full coverage finish on larger areas. Good for scar discoloration and also darer points of birthmarks etc...
• Finally, there is absolutely no need to spend out on special brush cleaner. I have and continue to use a good antibacterial washing up liquid (fairy for some reason seems to work best for me) for all my synthetic brushes, as it’s excellent at removing grease. All of it.

The Fine Print: These are all items from my professional kit.

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Spob O’Brian on Make-up Through the Ages

By Tindara
 Those of you who went to any of the Selfridges Beauty Project events will be sorry to hear that it’s now all over. The Get Lippie team had a great time and we decided to finish off our Beauty Project experience with a fascinating talk by Spob O’ Brian, Head Of Professional Development at Illamasqua, on Make-up Through the Ages. Spob is thoroughly engaging and very knowledgeable about the history of make-up. She went from the Egyptians covering themselves in ochre and clay, to World War II propaganda featuring red-lipped rosy-cheeked land girls. Like a lot of self-respecting beauty geeks I’m fascinated with this subject, and wanted to share some of the most interesting info that Spob imparted.

A lot of historical lotions and potions are remarkably similar in purpose to those we currently use. The earliest evidence of cosmetics were in ancient Egypt where handmaidens were only allowed to eat certain herbs and fruits as their saliva would be used in the mixing processes. Tomb paintings show Egyptian men and women sporting different coloured skin coverings made of clay, ochre, spit and oil, which protected them from the sun as well as making them look good; a mixture of the foundation and sunscreen that we use today. I hope Cleopatra washed it all off before the asses milk bathing. I’m now imagining her sitting in a bath of something resembling my cup of Twinings Everyday. Her skin must’ve been lovely and soft from all the clay and oils; it’s not so different from the kind of treatment you’d have at a spa, and it sounds like something that men would have taken part in too.

Egyptians also lined their eyes and brows heavily in black, with what we now know as kohl. And I bet you didn’t realise that in Ancient Egypt and Greece the mono-brow was highly prized. Why do we spend all this time plucking, and threading, eh? Or that there was a language of beauty spots in the 18th century when people used small pieces or fur or fabric to cover their smallpox scars. The placement would denote whether you were feeling coquettish or flirty. This could be fun. I dare you to use La passionnée pictured above for work tomorrow.

Of course, not all of it was so fun, the use of lead make-up from Ancient Rome to Elizabethan England led to lead poisoning and disease, but it was years later in 1873 when the production of theatrical greasepaint would lead to the first lead free make-up being made for the general public. Greasepaint was much harder work than current formulations and needed to be melted over candles in spoons before it could be used.

Spob pointed to women getting the vote in 1918 and the beginnings of cinema as the start of a period of greater self-expression and experimentation for women, as well as the beginning of the industry as we recognise it today. Further development came about as a result of WWII due to the market for camouflage after injury, and nail polish came about as a result of the car industry. Yes that’s right, the Opi and Essie stuff you paint your nails with was conceived as a result of spray paint for cars.
It’s a fascinating history and there’s a distinct correlation between Egyptian handmaidens and the red carpet make-up artists for A-listers today. I really want Spob to write a book about all this, when looking for information on this kind of historical detail, there really isn’t much out there. If she does a talk or event in the future I would urge you to go. You’ll love it. I’m off to paint beauty spots all over my face and mix my own mud packs.

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Fruity Florals Worth Your Time and Skin

 

By Laurin

I’ll come clean – I think most fruity florals smell like shampoo*. In the minds of many a perfume lover, “fruity floral” is a byword for bland, safe and indistinct. It’s not that there’s anything wrong with them exactly, it’s just that to me, they’re the fragrant equivalent of settling for a semi-detached house in Bromley when you had your heart set on a studio above a gay underwear emporium in Soho. They mostly smell of resignation and barely supressed rage.

Having said all that, I’ve recently found myself occasionally longing for fragrances that have no hidden agenda or awkward pronouncements to make over Sunday dinner. Listen up: despite what breathy marketing materials may have you believe, no fruity floral is going to make you smell sexy, seductive or even especially sophisticated. That’s a job better suited to an oriental or a chypre. A good fruity floral should simply make you happy to be alive. And on some days, that’s enough. Here are four stand-outs to evoke a sense of rosy-cheeked well-being.

Salvatore Ferragamo Signorina Eleganza, £60 for 50ml at www.houseoffraser.co.uk

I confess I was having a bad day when this arrived in the post, but it brought a smile to my face at first sniff. It opens unusually with a burst of juicy pear, sweet almond and a refreshing twist of bitter grapefruit that fizzes joyfully up from the skin. The fragrance sails along on a breath of osmanthus before finally drying down into soft, pillowy white musks which have the soupy warmth of an afternoon nap after an al fresco lunch on an unexpectedly sunny day. Wear with white linen and an air of rude good health.

Amouage Interlude Woman, £175 for 50ml at www.lessenteurs.com

Each time I smell this I want to break into a rousing chorus of “Oh! You Pretty Things!” I am certain that this is how mermaids smell. Nothing with a top note of kiwi fruit has any right to be so enchanting, but a dose of spicy immortelle, dark rose, a dusting of incense and the merest hint of oud all beckon you to break the surface of Karine Spehner’s shimmering composition. Wear this, and know that the best days are yet to come.

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire, £63 for 50ml at www.debenhams.com

I was pretty awful about LPRN when it first came out, and I’m still not sorry. Stupid name, stupid bottle. Apparently the name is a reference to the “dark” ingredients (black cherry, black tea, black rose and patchouli), but the cynical side of me (both sides) reckons it’s an attempt to draw in a younger customer who probably associates Guerlain with her grandmother. Fortunately, the juice itself is not just good enough to bear the name of its house, it’s an absolute delight to wear. It bursts out of the bottle with all the joy of a child running into a sweet shop: there are cherry lollipops, liquorice allsorts, candied almonds and Turkish delight all in there, waiting to rush straight to your head. I picture this on Lydia Bennet – all bouncing boobs, curls and giggles. Wear for dancing the night away with thoroughly unsuitable men.

By Kilian In The City of Sin, £75 for 50ml at www.lessenteurs.com

A few weeks back, Sali Hughes wrote that in order for fruity scents to be suitable for grown-up women, they must have a hint of tartness to elevate them above the usual sugary tweenage offerings. I tend to agree, but I’d also make a concession for herbs or warm spices. Here we have ripe plum and apricot stewed with bitter cardamom and finished off with crushed rose petals and pink peppercorns. It’s incredibly moreish on the skin without quite tipping into gourmand territory, so no one will mistake you for a crumble. Save this one for late summer, and buy the 50ml refill spray, unless you’re desperate for a gold snake-embossed clutch (and maybe you are, I don't know you your life).

Still not convinced? Would you sooner punch an Innocent Smoothie in the back of its stupid knitted hat than rise at dawn for sun salutations? Fine, I’ve got something for you as well. Get your clenched fists on a bottle of Etat Libre d’Orange Rien, and join me on a trip down memory lane to That Time The Neighbour’s Cat Weed on The Leather Seats of My Uncle’s 1979 Pontiac Bonneville on a Sweltering July Day. Let’s wear black and recite Sylvia Plath and refuse to go outside. Best. Summer. Ever.

* Did you see what I did there? [self five]

The Fine Print: Mixture of PR samples, and perfumes from my own collection

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Charlotte Tilbury Rock and Kohl Iconic Liquid Eye Pencils

If I was asked to list my desert island beauty products, I would have a hard time choosing between lipstick, mascara and eyeliner tbh.  Yeah, yeah, blush and foundation and eyeshadow are important, but, you know, if I'm creating a makeup look that I can do in less than five minutes, then lipstick, mascara and eyeliner would be my go-to products.  I love a high-contrast liquid eyeliner look, but for quickness on bleary mornings (and aren't all mornings bleary?), then a gorgeously smudgy but long-lasting pencil that doesn't require a particularly steady hand is most welcome.

Enter Charlotte Tilbury and her Iconic Liquid Eye Pencils. I have three - Verushka Mink, the Eye Cheat for Bigger Brighter Eyes, and Marlena Midnight, which are, respectively, a grey-taupe, an apricot flesh-tone, and a soft blackened-navy.

Having a gorgeously soft gel texture, the pencils glide onto the lid with no dragging whatsoever, and offer a beautifully opaque colour the picture below shows off the texture nicely:

They're very creamy, and wear extremely well on the skin.  Charlotte's MUAs have mentioned a 14-16 hour wear time, and whilst I can't attest to that (as I don't sleep in my makeup.  well, not these days, anyway...), they do last really really well over a powder shadow.  I have seen a small amount of transfer to upper lids if you pair them with a cream shadow that doesn't set, but they do last well even so. The points do wear down quickly, however, so whilst it is easy to get a smudgy, lived-in look with the pencils, getting a sharp, graphic line might require a little more effort.

Colour pay-off on skin is rather fabulous - these swatches are one pass with the pencil over bare, unprimed skin.  I really like them, and whilst they're a softer effect than a straightforward black (my usual default eyeliner colour), there's enough pigment in these to not look dusty on the skin.  The Eye Cheat, when first applied to the waterline can look a little startling, but it soon warms up and spreads, and looks surprisingly natural in wear.  I've noticed no irritation for my contact lenses in wear, which is great too.

Having said it's difficult to get a more graphic look with the liners, it is possible:

This was, however, the handiwork of Nelson at the Charlotte Tilbury counter at Selfridges, but it goes to show that it is possible!  I've no idea what I'm raising my eyebrow at, btw.  I had a makeover at counter last week, which I can't recommend highly enough, I came away with a bunch of tips and tricks, and a real new appreciation of the entire Charlotte Tilbury line.  More about this soon, as I have a few of the products that we used on the day to give a proper workout to, but here's a sneaky preview of me wearing Charlotte's "Ingenue* Look" ...

All in all, these were a great introduction to the line, and if as much thought and care has gone into the rest of the products, I'm sold ...

*It's okay, I laughed too.  My ingenue days were over about a decade (or three) ago ...

The Fine Print: PR Samples - Pictures for this post were taken with a Nokia Lumia 1020 on loan from Microsoft.

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Miller Harris Summer Collection - Le Petit Grain, Tangerine Vert and Citron Citron

The Team recently popped along to the Miller Harris Boutique in Belgravia, to see their beautiful new "Symphony of Colour" summer collaboration with Cyril Destrade.  A re-release of three of their well-known citrus-based fragrances, with new limited edition water-coloured packaging, here's the team's thoughts on the fragrances themselves.

Petit Grain by Tindara

Some of you may have noticed I have an unusual name. It’s Sicilian, and those who know me best, know I never stop blathering on about this. Sorry and all that, but being an inbetweenie Anglo-Italian affects EVERYTHING. Look at me with my lapsed Catholic rusty bi-lingualism! No I’m not called Tandoori or Tindra, that’s an IKEA flooring. Yes, my dad was a chef and my mum is a seamstress. What of it? 

... I’m meant to be talking about perfume aren’t I? It all links up, honest. I spent every summer as a child in the Sicilian countryside on the north-eastern coast near the city of Messina with the Aeolian islands in view. My grandparents had fig, bergamot, lemon and orange trees, trails of verbena led to the olive groves that were punctuated by prickly pear cacti. I am really lucky that this was my summer playground, and nothing takes me back to it like perfume.

Le Petit Grain, like a lot of citrus based scents, has a particular resonance. First it’s a fresh splash of lemon and bergamot but with something herby and warm that gives it a bit more substance and spice. Like smelling the citrons on my nonna’s kitchen table, whilst the woody rosemary branches are hanging all around us. So I’m ambling down the road and this stuff is sparkling away like a summer drink with citrus and herbs and then this subsides and Mr Vetivert and Mrs Patchouli come for a visit, and they leave me with a heart of oaky wax reminiscent of the finish to Serge Luten’s Ambre Sultan. I really like this, as you can probably tell. My only disappointment with it is that it doesn’t last well on me. But this does happen with citrus scents and cologne and the only answer is to apply more frequently. I think for this one it might be worth it.

Tangerine Vert - by Get Lippie

Bearing a strong resemblence to Hermes' Orange Vert (one of my all time favourite scents), Miller Harris' Tangerine Vert starts in with a startlingly photo-real blast of tangerine peel, which almost verges into an extremely clean and lively-bright grapefruit, but this is backed up with the smell of bright green crushed leaves, that eventually softens into a blend of cedar and musks.  It's bright, and pretty (and hugely unisex in appeal), and uplifts the spirits gorgeously.   It's a little spiky, and rather on the lively side, but that's just what summer scents need, if you ask me.  It won't last longer than the average spell of British summer sunshine, but that just means you need to reapply regularly.  I've suffered from a spell of anosmia recently, and this has been one of the few fragrances to cut through my smell-less world, so for that, I shall be eternally grateful.

Citron Citron - by Luke

I was assigned Citron Citron and, as I have had a bit of a lament recently about not owning a real citrus scent this was a good choice.

Citron Citron is one of the original Miller Harris fragrances, and the scent is a really gentle, woody spicy citrus. Very lemony, it has lime, and orange in there too. All the citrus bases are well and truly covered. This fragrance has the same sensation of lying in long grass in the summertime surrounded by very ripe citrus trees, and a cold glass of martini. We’ve all been there.

It is a very herby smelling citrus as it has basil, which is very pleasantly perceptible, alongside mint. It's not too warm, being a little on the sweet side, and it's not too zingy as a result, it dries down to an almost powdery scent. I like it a lot.

Being a citrus scent, it really doesn’t last on my skin for very long, so was I bitterly (see what I did there) disappointed. This was surprising to me, especially as it’s an eau de parfum formulation. However, I realised that spritzing this on my clothes instead seemed to make it’s ‘waft’ power somewhat stronger, and it has lasted longer as a result.

Absolutely perfect for the current clammy weather, this will no doubt cut right through any of that beautifully.  

***

The limited edition Symphony of Scent collection is available in 50ml bottles from Miller Harris at £65 a pop.

The Fine Print: PR Samples

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1000 Post Giveaway with Debenhams!

When I started Get Lippie nearly five years ago, I didn't really expect much - I wasn't a makeup artist, and I didn't think anyone (outside of a very select few people, and possibly their cat), would have any real desire to read my wibblings about lipgloss.  Now, 1000 posts and almost five years later, it's hard to believe that I resisted blogging for so long!

What started, too many years ago to mention, as an obsession borne at the local branch of Debenhams, has now grown into a blog with a four man team behind the scenes, and, along the way there have been award nominations galore, some amazing products, including a couple named after the blog! And some hugely surreal and enjoyable experiences!  I never imagined spending all my wages on lipstick would lead to such things, it's been a strange and wild ride ...

Now, today just happens to be my birthday, but I'd like to give you guys a present, as practically everyday feels a tiny bit like a birthday these days ;)  After we had a bit of a brainstorm at Get Lippie HQ, we decided to offer one lucky reader what we think is an amazing prize.  Between the four of us, we've got a couple of perfume experts, a couple of lipstick obsessives, one professional makeup artist, and four - count them! - FOUR  complete cosmetic and skincare nerds.  And we love shopping for makeup.  And skincare.  And fragrance.  And a couple of us like shopping for shoes, too.

Anyway!

And we want to take you shopping! Whether you're looking for your perfect red lipstick, that glorious hot date fragrance, want a complete makeover or just want to know your Clarins from your Urban Decay, we - the entire team - will meet you on a date of your choice in Debenhams Oxford Street, and you'll be able to pick all of our brains!

Now, makeup shopping can be expensive, especially at the moment, so this personal shopping evening comes complete with £250 worth of vouchers for you to spend in-store, a Beauty Club Card which comes pre-loaded with £20's worth of Beauty Club points, and you'll have your pick of in-store treatments whilst you're there, too.  So if you fancy a quicky manicure, or an eyebrow shape whilst you're there, you can!  Oh, and when you're done, Debenhams will give you a fancy goody bag featuring products from many of their brands too!  The Beauty Hall at Debenhams Oxford Street is one of my favourite places, and we're all looking forward to seeing you there!

Just follow the instructions on Rafflecopter below to enter.  We'll be making the final draw on Tuesday 24th June at lunchtime, and we'll be in touch ASAP after that to arrange the details.  Please make sure you pay special attention to the terms and conditions though, we beg you!

The prizes again, are:

One private personal shopping event with the Get Lippie Team (or individual members thereof) at Debenhams Oxford Street, London.
£250's worth of Debenhams gift vouchers
£20's worth of Beauty Club Points
Selection of in-store treatments on the night (subject to availability on the night)
Goody Bag featuring Debenhams beauty brands.

The total prize value is around £500!  What are you waiting for?

As Rafflecoptor, for some reason, isn't showing it:  the official tweet to enter this giveaway is:

"I'm celebrating @Get_Lippie's 1000th post by entering her £250+ giveaway with @Debenhams! #GetLippie1000 http://tinyurl.com/lpxynrh"

a Rafflecopter giveaway



Prize sponsored in part by Debenhams, to whom we are profoundly grateful.

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Guerlain Rouge G 864 Rose Grenat - Limited Edition

We love a Guerlain Rouge G (or 12 ...) at Get Lippie, and the release of a new limited edition colour, especially when it is in what I think is my signature shade of reddish-pink is definitely a cause for celebration!  In fact, this has been practially the only lipstick I've been wearing for the last few weeks.  But it's not just the colour of the lipstick itself that makes me happy, it's the case too.

In a change from the usual entirely silver livery, this new Rouge G in Rose Grenat comes clad in a coating that almost exactly matches the lipstick inside:

It's a happy, cheery, bright and beautiful, deep shade of red-pink.  In the flesh, lighting depending (and further depending on the pigmentation of your own lips, the lipstick can appear fuchsia-ish, or a lovely cherry red.

It has the usual sublime Guerlain Rouge G formula, which is emollient without being greasy, and highly pigmented without dragging, and it's divinely scented with just a hint of violets and rose (look, I said I was a fan, okay?)  I find the Rouge G formula to be my favourite of all the ultra-luxe lipsticks at around this price point, and I adore the retro-space-age packaging, which I find reminds me of the Jetsons, for some reason.

The packaging is heavy, no doubt about it, and if you have more than two Rouge G's in your handbag (as I often do), then you'll know about it for sure, but I find the mirrors super handy, personally, and hey, if you ever need to use your makeup bag as a weapon, then there's no finer lipstick to have nearby ...

Creamy and richly pigmented, Rose Grenat is a lovely shade for spring/summer, and I'm glad to have it around.  It's been on counter for a couple of weeks now, and the limited-edition packaging (which makes it really easy to identify which Rouge G is which, and I wish they'd do more of it, to be honest) means it'll soon be sold out, so you'll need to snap this one up quick-smart.  There's also a version in a snowy white shade, also in a colour-matched case, but I don't do well in anything milky, so won't be picking that one up, personally, but it's very lovely indeed.

Guerlain Rouge G's are available at all good department stores, and cost £31.50

The Fine Print: PR Sample. Pictures for this post were taken with a Nokia Lumia 1020 lent to me by Microsoft. Brilliant gadget, by the way!

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