Face of the fortnight - as promised!

Sorry about the extreme close up nature of these pics, I'm in the middle of a major hair crisis!  A really major hair crisis ... But this is how my Maybelline/Bobbi Brown makeup looks when it's put together.  I've been trialling Lancome Teint Idole, and Clarins Wonder Perfect mascara in this pic too, so expect a post on those later on in the week ...

I'm wearing the Cargo Plant Love mineral baked Illuminator in wind on my cheeks, still totally in love with that product, and how it looks in these pics.

Mini Bobbi Brown Haul - and Face of the Week

Okay, face of the fortnight, if I'm being honest ... I bought these shadows from Bobbi Brown recently, in the palette there is (L-R) Flesh, Naked and Gunmetal, and on first glance I think they look a little uninspiring, but this has been one of my very favourite purchases for a while.  I had initially been intent on buying Flesh and Woodrose from BB as some new neutral base shadows, but on swatching in House of Fraser, I realised that Woodrose is just a little too cool for my pale-custard coloured skin, so I swapped it out for Naked.  Gunmetal was a colour that I wasn't intending to buy at all (I've done two grey-eyeshadow based makeovers lately, and they got terrible feedback, who knew it was so contentious?), but I kind of fell in love with this shade in the store.

Here's how they swatch (dry, on unprimed skin) without flash and with:

You'll notice that Flesh disappears almost entirely on my skin, and you may be thinking that's a bad thing, but actually, it's not.  It's perfect for creating an even and matte base for other shadows, and when I add  Naked into the crease for a contour, I really love the effect I get, they're a lovely pair of colours for that polished and natural look I'm such a fan of.  I've mainly been using gunmetal as a softer lining alternative to black recently, and for a big night out recently (one where I knew I was going to be going out with a lot of women who don't wear an awful lot of makeup), I created this look:

Basically, I used Flesh (over Urban Decay Primer Potion), over the entire eyelid, up to the brow as a base, then defined the crease with Naked, and created a winged liner look from corner to corner with Gunmetal and I loved how the grey contrasted and brought out the brown in my eyes.  I'm also enjoying using matte shades for winter, I think they look very different to the shimmery looks I've been creating lately.

I've been doing a softer version of this look for daily office wear for the last week, combining it with Maybelline Hollywood Red, and I'll bring you a full-face version of this look soon.  I'm not showing the full face look here as I hate how shiny I am in the pics, and I've changed my foundation to a more matte formulation recently.  I'm all about the matte at the moment, it seems!

(note: I've had my eyebrows done since I took these pics, my eyebrows are the bane of my existence, Denis Healy and me, separated at birth.  Troo story)

Makeover: Louise

This is Louise:

Louise came to me wanting a classic "English Rose" look, as she wanted to look glowing, natural, and make the most of her beautiful blue eyes.  She has a make up bag full of steely greys, but after a chat, we thought something more apricot, and shimmery would be an excellent contrast.

Louise has lovely skin - no pores! - and we didn't need a huge a huge amount of coverage, so as a base, we used Benefit You Rebel in Light.  Louise does have a small patch of broken veins on her right cheek, so to cover them, we used a small amount of MAC concealer patted on, and finished off with a very, very light dusting of Benefit Bluffdust to further counteract the redness, and tone down shininess.

On Louise's eyes, I wanted to use lovely shimmering golden apricot shades, to complement her skintone, and to really make the blue in her eyes stand out. I applied MAC Naked Lunch as a colourwash all over her lid up to the brow bone:

Then we added just a touch of MAC Patina to the outside corner, and as an eyeliner, I used Cargo's Plant Love shadow in Sparrow:

Louise's lashes needed a little definition - actually, everyone's lashes need a little definition, mascara should totally be everyone's desert island beauty product, if you ask me! - so we added a coat of Louise's own Boots mascara:

Then we moved onto blush, and we used MAC's Prism, which is a lovely coral-y peach shade:

Once that was in place, we added a touch of Bobbi Brown's lipgloss in Rose Sugar, and the look was finished:

Here's the before and after, just look at the difference in those eyes!

Pictures by Genna.

Makeover: Seona - The Return

This is Seona:

Some of you will have seen Seona on the blog before from when I did her wedding makeup.  Seona's a good friend, and was one of the first to volunteer for another makeover when I had the idea for this series a couple of months ago.

After sitting down and discussing what Seona wanted from this session, it was hard to decide, Seona wanted both a lesson on how to do a smokey eye, but ... wanted to use some "exotic" colours.  She's been using a lot of browns and bronzes lately, and thinks she's been stuck in a bit of a makeup rut.  In the end, we decided to do a bit of both.

Browns and bronzes really suit Seona, but we decided to use purple as an accent colour today, but first, we need to sort out the base:

Seona doesn't need much coverage at all, so we just smoothed in a light layer of Bobbi Brown Tinted Moisturising balm in Light, then followed that with a dusting of MAC Blot to remove shine.  Then, to even out the colour on Seona's eyelids, we added a thin layer of my (recently depotted) Urban Decay Primer potion to her eyelids:

Then, we applied a colourwash of Trish McEvoy eyeshadow in Cashmere (a lovely pinky-purply brown shade) all over the lid:

Then, to accentuate the crease, and add some definition, we added Trish McEvoy eyeshadow in Sugar Plum in a v-shape to the outer corners of her lids:

Once this was blended out, we added Trish McEvoy Definer shadow in Deep Amethyst as a liner to her upper lid:

And went back to Cashmere for her lower:

Again, we smudged that out, and added a layer of Max Factor Masterpiece Mascara, then added blush (MAC Blushbaby) and finished off the look with a slick of Bare Escentuals Buxom Lipgloss in Dolly:

And here's the finished look:

However, when we were finished, I didn't think this was "exotic" enough - it was a lovely daytime smokey eye, but I realised we could take it to a nighttime look very easily by adding a brightly coloured eyeliner, so out came my trusty bottle of Urban Decay liquid liner in Ecstasy:

And presto, the day look became a night-time one!  Here's the obligatory (and specifically requested by Seona) soft focus "glamour shot":

We had great fun, and I'd like to say a massive thank you to Sarah for acting as my photographer.

Makeover: Jane

Meet Jane:

Jane is a good friend of mine, and she's kindly agreed to be my first model in my makeover series.  Jane's 47, works in a University, and has amazing bone structure.  Ordinarily, Jane doesn't wear much make-up beyond a touch of mascara and some Vaseline on her lips, and today we are going to create a glamorous and sophisticated evening look.

The first thing to do is to even out skin-tone with a touch of base, Jane is a little prone to high colour around her cheeks, nose and forehead, so we concentrated on those areas:

We used MAC stick foundation here in NC25, and I used that as a concealer in the corners of her eyes, and a touch of matching MAC Concealer underneath her eyes too. In order to counteract Jane's natural tendency to redness, I used Benefit Bluffdust to set and finish off the base.

Here's how Jane looked after some serious blending:

Jane has beautiful blue eyes, but they need a little more framing, so before we got started on her eyes properly, I filled in her eyebrows a little using Bobbi Brown Blonde eyeshadow:

Just a dab'll do ya ...

For Jane's lids, I used Bobbi Brown Champagne Truffle shimmer wash, with Stone to define the crease:

In the flesh, the Champagne is actually more of a golden-apricot shade which complements Jane's eyes perfectly.  I then went on and added Chocolate as an eyeliner, and finished with two coats of Max Factor 2000 Calorie mascara.

To finish, I added MAC Blushbaby, and a touch of Bare Escentuals Clear radiance to Jane's cheeks, and for her lips, we used Estee Lauder lipstick in Sugar Honey:

Presto!  A lovely, sophisticated - glowing! - look, that can be toned down slightly for the daytime too.

Here's the obligatory soft focus glamour shot:

All photos - except the last - shot in pure daylight and unretouched.

Many thanks to Jane for being so patient and lovely, here's hoping you enjoyed it!

Products I Simply Can't Live Without

Okay, I said there was going to be a follow up to my follow up (look, I know what I mean) post earlier, so here it is, these are the products I either use on a daily basis, or recommend to my clients regularly:

Chanel Precision Bi-Phase Eye Makeup remover: I have used EVERY eye make up remover on the planet (it feels like!) and this is the only one I've been able to buy more than once. So many of them sting, aren't suitable for contact lense wearers, leave a soapy film on your face, or - and this is the killer - don't remove all of your mascara. I'm a big fan of the liquid liner, and full-on tranny lashes look, so it takes some removing. The best thing about this product is that you don't have to scrub at your eyes at all, just soak a cotton wool pad in a few drops, hold it to your eye for about thirty seconds, then rub gently, v e r y gently, and all your mascara will come off like a dream. And no stinging. Did I mention it doesn't sting?

Origins Liquid Crystal Cleanser: Oh, it breaks my heart, but Origins discontinued this last year, and I'm still not over it. I have attempted to stop using products that contain SLS and parabens over the last few years, as I realised that foaming cleansers were contributing to my flaky, blotchy, dry and SPOTTY skin. I found this, and my skin has never looked better, even as I rapidly approach my, er ... mid thirties*. Cleansing with oils feels weird at first, but, once you realise that the "taut" feeling you get after using a foam cleanser is actually your skin drying out and crying for moisture, you realise that this is what your skin is supposed to feel like after cleansing! I have three bottles of this left in my cabinet, and when they go, I'll be on the prowl for a replacement.

* Those of you who know how old I really am can stop laughing now. Thank you.

Bobbi Brown Tinted Moisturising Balm: I'll be honest. I'm lazy. Lazy, lazy, lazy. Most days, I simply can't be bothered with both moisturiser and foundation, so I slap on a layer of this, and I'm all set for the day. I love it because it has a fair amount of coverage that's unusual in a moisturiser product, and as well as evening out my occasionally blotchy skin tone, it's also an excellent moisturiser - which, ironically, can be many a tinted moisuriser's downfall, they just don't soften the skin! Plus, it's choc-a-bloc full of essential oils, and it smells wonderful. I have seriously dry and sensitive skin at times, but when I'm wearing this, you'd never notice. It leaves you with a lovely dewy finish, which is perfect for the day time.

MAC Blot: This is simply the best powder ever for avoiding shine. Sometimes, the BB tinted balm can leave me a little too dewy (who knew that would ever be a problem?) and a light dusting of this over the top is more than enough coverage. I love that the coverage you get is almost invisible, and that you stay matte for hours. This (alongside eyeshadow primer) is probably the product I recommend most to my personal shopping clients. It's simple, relatively inexpensive, will last a very long time, and it WORKS.


Benefit Creaseless Cream Eyeshadow: Man, I hate cream eyeshadows. They crease, they're greasy, and they wear off your lids in about 30 seconds. Not this baby, it stays where it's put, and it stays there till you take it off. I have a real love/hate relationship with Benefit, when the product works, they are very, very good, but so very often, they're a triumph of cutesy packaging over substance, and when they're bad, they can be extremely expensive cosmetic disasters. These eyeshadows are one of Benefit's triumphs for me, the colours stay true (although they will fade a bit over the course of a 12 hour day) but they're easy to apply, they don't crease, and they are well worth the outlay. The colour selection is slightly limited, and if you don't like shimmer, then you're out of luck, but give them a try anyway.


So, there you go. Sadly, there's nothing trendy here, and nothing too obscure (though I hope I'll be forgiven including something discontinued here!) but, these are my baseline products, ones I myself use very regularly, and ones that have been proved to me over and over again that they work. Many of my happiest customers wander away with at least one of these products, and I hear from them all the time how pleased they are with them.