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Wednesday 24 September 2014

Tauer Perfumes: Sotta La Luna Gardenia Review


By Laurin

Spending one’s Saturday afternoons poking around perfume blogs and websites brings one to a small and perhaps completely obvious conclusion. Many perfumers and perfume lovers alike are also gardeners. This makes sense when I think of it, that a love of fragrance might be born out of a love of nature and the bounty of odours within. Or perhaps having a living reference to hand is useful when attempting to evoke through scent a childhood memory of long summer nights and fragrant breezes. OR, maybe we’re all just natural hedonists for whom the feel of one’s hands in wet soil or the sun on bare skin is just as irresistible as any foray into gluttony or lust.

All of the above?

I have neither a green thumb, nor a garden in which to put it to work. My personal smellscape is limited to the urban, the gourmet and the grotesque. To my knowledge, I have never smelled a gardenia. So, when I sat down to write this piece, I found myself at the mercy of the Royal Horticultural Society via Google. On the subject of gardenia, they have this to say: “(Gardenias are) grown for their attractive foliage and highly scented showy flowers. (They are) often considered to be difficult.”

Attractive, highly scented and possibly difficult could easily apply to Andy Tauer’s latest release, Gardenia Sotto La Luna. To be fair, you could apply the same to most of his fragrances and you wouldn’t be lying. They are not fragrances for the faint of heart, nor do they make small talk. They should only be sprayed when you’re in the mood to listen.

Gardenia gets straight to the point as it takes the stage. This is a heady, intense floral with no aldehydes or bergamot to soften its seductive message. The flower is laid over a creamy base of tonka and vanilla, which peek through its spicy facets of gingerbread and clove from start to finish. But lest you thought you were getting a freshly baked confection, warm from the over, you should also know that this gardenia always keeps its feet planted firmly in the more earthly scents of overripe banana and tiny mushrooms pushing through the forest floor.

There is a telling scene in Ernest Hemingway’s novel The Sun Also Rises in which Montoya, the bullfighting aficionado and hotel proprietor, walks into a bar in search of the young bullfighter Pedro Romero and finds him: 

“with a big glass of cognac in his hand, sitting between (Jake) and a woman with bare shoulders, at a table full of drunks. He did not even nod.”


Sotto La Luna Gardenia is that bare-shouldered woman, Lady Brett Ashley. Nominally an upstanding fragrance that you could introduce to your grandmother, but ready (and more importantly, willing) to fulfil your most carnal urges behind closed doors. Or, as that noted 21st century philosopher Usher noted in his 2004 treatise entitled Yeah!, “a lady in the street but a freak in the bed!”  

The Fine Print: Sample sourced from Les Senteurs

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Sunday 24 July 2011

Project Perfume - Andy Tauer Pentachords



I always think of Tauer perfumes as lush and somewhat baroque creations, so discovering that his latest collection - available in the UK from October - is an exercise in minimalism was fascinating.  Each of the three initial fragrances in the series, which are named White, Auburn and Verdant, is made of 5 notes, and each of those notes is created from a single (synthetic) molecule.

Very interesting.  I spoke to Andy last year and I know he's actually an advocate of using (some) synthetics in perfumes, in that they allow a stability in ingredient quality.  Quality in natural botanical essences can be variable, and supplementing with the occasional synthetic can be a boon to a perfumer. 

The scents are described as follows:
White: violet blossom, orris root, bourbon vanilla, amber gris, warm wood
Auburn: citrus blossom, warm cinnamon, fruity tobacco, dry amber, creamy sandalwood
Verdant: dewy leaves, suave leather, brown tobacco, sweet earth, vibrant amber

These are a massive departure for Andy, and after having an initial play with the samples I was sent recently by the ever-wonderful Ronny at Scent and Sensibility ( who have long been my favourite UK-based perfume supplier) I'm intrigued and fascinated by the fragrances.  So much so that I'd like to write a joint review of the perfumes with one of my readers, I think they'll benefit from a set of opinions, rather than just my thoughts on this occasion.

I have a second set of samples here, and I'm going to send them to one of my readers in exchange for a review I can post here on Get Lippie.  If you're willing to trial and test, then write about the scents, please either leave a comment on this post explaining why you're the best person for the job, or alternatively, send an email to tauer@getlippie.com doing the same.  I'll pick a writing partner next Sunday, 31st July.


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Monday 4 April 2011

Andy Tauer's Carillon Pour Un Ange Review and Giveaway

 Bosky.  It's not a word I use enough on Get Lippie.  It's a word I like though.


Carillon pour un Ange is almost a textbook definition of the word bosky.  Earthy, damp, lightly green and redolent of lily of the valley, the latest release from Andy Tauer's Homages line is purest spring, bottled.


Above the intriguing notes of damp earth, wet leaves and cool cedar is a sharp peal of pure white spring flowers, reminding me of a walk through an English wood on a slightly drizzly spring day.  Lily of the valley and lilac get a bad reputation for being (perhaps) granny-ish, but this mixture of earth and ethereal flowers make this a floral scent which is very different and very, very appealing.  I've worn this a few times over the winter when I've wanted to remind myself that spring is indeed on the way.  


This is one of those scents that you'll find yourself sniffing constantly, being reminded at times of mud pies, and at others of sophisticated white bouquets, but at all times being reminded that it's spring.  The scent has amazing sillage (meaning other people will be able to smell it too - particularly if you apply  with too heavy a hand) and a mere drop or two will last the entire day.


And because it finally is spring, I've teamed up with the lovely Ronny at Scents & Sensibility to give away a full-size gift-boxed bottle of Carillon Pour Un Ange (worth £99) to one lucky reader, prior to it being officially launched for sale in May. 


All you have to do is leave a comment on this post telling me what your favourite spring scents are - perfumes, or otherwise.  Please be a resident of the UK, and please make sure that you leave me a valid email address.  I will make the draw on the evening of April 10th, so please get your entries in before then!

The Fine Print: Prize will be dispatched direct from Scents & Sensibility, however, Get Lippie reserves the right to disqualify invalid entries, or any entries obviously originating from competition listing websites. 


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Wednesday 1 December 2010

Andy Tauer's Advent Giveaway

I'm a massive fan of Andy Tauer, I was lucky enough to meet with him recently (more about that anon), and I enjoyed a great deal hearing about how he is inspired to create his perfumes, and to be able to smell some of the ingredients that make up his creations. He is certainly an artist of perfume in an increasingly corporate bland and fruity-smelling miasma.  If you're interested how perfumes are created, rather than designed, then you should certainly read his blog.

Anyhoo, this year, he's having an advent giveaway, with a chance to win a scent every single day, and it's something I'll be entering at every opportunity (I have some samples of his fragrances here that I'll be reviewing very soon) how about you?  It's 24 opportunities to win a wonderful prize!

Click here for details of Andy Tauer's Advent Giveaway
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